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Chef John Currence
Co-owner of City Grocery in Oxford Mississippi.
Brad: Welcome Chef.
Brad: Some introductory comments chef?
ChefJohnCurrence: Sure, I was raised as a native NOLA kid, and stumbled into the restaurant business in North Carolina.
ChefJohnCurrence: My mom was on the original opening crew of Gautreau's in New Orleans.
ChefJohnCurrence: The restaurant was owned by one of her good friends.
ChefJohnCurrence: I spent a lot of time with my mom in the kitchen as a kid.
ChefJohnCurrence: When I got to UNC, out of sheer desperation, I got into the restaurant business...
ChefJohnCurrence: As a bus boy!
ChefJohnCurrence: Immediately fired for lack of social skills;>
ChefJohnCurrence: But managed to redeem myself as a dishwasher.
ChefJohnCurrence: The chef at Crooks Corner in Chapel Hill.
ChefJohnCurrence: Inspired me. A real; guru of southern cooking, Bill Neal.
ChefJohnCurrence: In my spare time from washing dishes, he ended up taking me under his wing.
Brad: How did that happen?
ChefJohnCurrence: I was always asking to help.
Brad: Then you came back to New Orleans?
ChefJohnCurrence: After three years as kitchen manager at Crooks.
ChefJohnCurrence: After my stint as the disher, I became the Sous Chef.
Brad: Sous Chef? Please explain...
ChefJohnCurrence: Just the French Term for assistant chef.
ChefJohnCurrence: I eventually took on a 2nd job Aurora in Chapel Hill...
ChefJohnCurrence: White linen, fine dining.
ChefJohnCurrence: I moved home to New Orleans in the late 80's.
ChefJohnCurrence: Invited to come back by a friend who was reopening Gautreaus.
ChefJohnCurrence: Mark Selman, the chef there, coerced me to come back.
ChefJohnCurrence: Head Chef and owner.
Brad: What happened next?
ChefJohnCurrence: Mark solidified my convictions to go into the restaurant business myself.
ChefJohnCurrence: I was toying with Law School or other things, but realized this was what I really wanted to do.
ChefJohnCurrence: Working at Gautreau with close childhood friend, Palmer Adams,
ChefJohnCurrence: Who is ultimately the man who told me about Oxford, Ms.
ChefJohnCurrence: I then I came there, 4 years later.
ChefJohnCurrence: I also worked for the Brennan family at Mr. B's in New Orleans, before coming to Oxford.
CourtB: I love Mr B's!
ChefJohnCurrence: After a while with them, I decided I was ready to break out on my own.
Brad: City Grocery?
ChefJohnCurrence: And then City Grocery fell in my lap.
Brad: What did you think about Oxford?
ChefJohnCurrence: My first impression of Oxford was exciting...
ChefJohnCurrence: A surrogate Chapel Hill for me, a vibrant college town.
ChefJohnCurrence: And there was no ambitious fine dining in Oxford, and I felt I really had something to offer.
ChefJohnCurrence: When you find a good location, that's crying out for something you've got, then you've just got to go.
Nedsta256: You're a native New Orleanian - How has that informed your style at City Grocery?
ChefJohnCurrence: Well...
ChefJohnCurrence: I suppose as a lover of my home,
ChefJohnCurrence: I'll never escape the food I was brought up with.
ChefJohnCurrence: By virtue of the fact that my training was in classical French and Italian food, and my desire to explore all cuisines of the world, I don't think I'll ever be tagged as a Creole style "only" chef.
ChefJohnCurrence: But these influences creep in to the food we do.
Brad: Any Creole dishes on the menu?
ChefJohnCurrence: Our menu changes every 6-7 weeks.
ChefJohnCurrence: We're not tied to any specific ethnic menu.
ChefJohnCurrence: I like to do a little of everything.
ChefJohnCurrence: I add local ingredients to oriental dishes... And certainly creole ingredients find there way into the menu as well.
ChefJohnCurrence: Right now we've got a dish with Andouille, and Louisiana Wild Rice...
Anne: John, will you convert your Shrimp & Grits recipe to yield 100 so I can serve the SAEs here on campus???
ChefJohnCurrence: Anne, come see me.
ChefJohnCurrence: I'll help you multiply it up, anytime.
ChefJohnCurrence: I really does convert directly from the recipe thats online.
Alecv: I lived in Chapel Hill for 4 years... Where did you cook there?
ChefJohnCurrence: Crooks Corner and Aurora restaurants.
Alecv: I ate at both of those places!
CourtB: How do you get your grits the right consistency?
ChefJohnCurrence: First of all.
ChefJohnCurrence: It starts with being raised in the south.
ChefJohnCurrence: If you can't cook fresh grits by instinct, then you need to visit the South.
Guest183: What is your favorite restaurant in New Orleans?
ChefJohnCurrence: In New Orleans, when I head home, I go straight for the Acme Oyster House.
ChefJohnCurrence: Or Cooter Brown's for their oyster bar.
ChefJohnCurrence: If I want a fine meal.
ChefJohnCurrence: And go out, you will have a tough time finding a better meal than at Brigtson's or Anne Kerny at Peristyle.
ChefJohnCurrence: Anne is a wonderful friend of mine.
ChefJohnCurrence: Frank Brigtson is a tremendous guy.
CourtB: In your opinion, how are classical french and deep southern american cuisine most different?
ChefJohnCurrence: Beside the obvious geographical difference?
ChefJohnCurrence: Deep Southern Cooking is very different as it is structured for the more immediate gratification of the Southern consumer.
ChefJohnCurrence: The french are much more willing to wait for their food, while folks want their fried chicken, now!
ChefJohnCurrence: Southerners have a real passion for food, but aren't nearly as particular as the French.
ChefJohnCurrence: Equally strong desires, but the French take it a heck of a lot more seriously that we do.
Nedsta256: Oxford is kind of "land locked..." Do ya'll do fresh seafood specials?
ChefJohnCurrence: We're actually seafood strong.
ChefJohnCurrence: With the development of the transportation industry we can get fish as fresh in Oxford as you can in New Orleans.
ChefJohnCurrence: I buy from a dock in Hawaii, as well as Beaumont, Tx, New York and Atlanta.
Nedsta256: Say, Chef, can Starkville Bulldogs come eat at your restaurant?
ChefJohnCurrence: Ha ha.
ChefJohnCurrence: Let me think.
ChefJohnCurrence: Absolutely. We get all kinds of trash here.
ChefJohnCurrence: And everybody, call me John.
ChefJohnCurrence: All my cooks are naked and drunk!
Nedsta256: I visited Oxford and was impressed by it's art community. Do you guys ever feature local artists in the restaurant?
ChefJohnCurrence: Certainly.
ChefJohnCurrence: Our dining room walls are decorated with lots of paintings by local artists from all over the region.
Guest185: Will you be featuring any special dishes for the Mardi Gras season?
ChefJohnCurrence: No, we used to put on "the Mardi Gras Dog" every year... And I had a wayward souls Mardi Gras party for friends up here, but...
ChefJohnCurrence: We had to discontinue it because it took two days to clean up after the last one!
Brad: Sounds like you guys like to have fun...
ChefJohnCurrence: The restaurant business isn't all business...
Cajungeno: What is your recipe for shrimp scampi!
ChefJohnCurrence: Sure, we've got a great recipe for it...
Brad: Don't you have a cookbook?
ChefJohnCurrence: We're putting together a cook book now...
ChefJohnCurrence: Since you've asked for it, we'll put it in there.
Nedsta256: Hi John, what's on the menu tonight?
ChefJohnCurrence: We've got a duck confit...
ChefJohnCurrence: With red onion marmalade and marinated lentils, a mixed grill of ostrich tenderloin and Mississippi Farm Raised Quail, with Bernaise.
ChefJohnCurrence: And a Thai chili vinaigrette.
Brad: Ever have Rabbit?
ChefJohnCurrence: We've got a very classical rabbit ragout pasta on the menu now, too.
ChefJohnCurrence: With goat cheese and wilted arugula.
Brad: Any More questions for the Chef - please feel free to ask.
Brad: What are Winter Greens?
ChefJohnCurrence: Winter are subject to interpretation.
ChefJohnCurrence: They could be any "bitter' green.
ChefJohnCurrence: There's no real definition of winter greens...
ChefJohnCurrence: Not like collards.
ChefJohnCurrence: More like chickories or arugula.
Brad: How did the Rebels do this year?
ChefJohnCurrence: Sooo.. The volleyball team is always on top.
ChefJohnCurrence: Can't speak for the football team...
Guest185: Is crawfish ever part of your menu?
ChefJohnCurrence: Almost never NOT part of my menu...
ChefJohnCurrence: On my last menu, we had savory crawfish cheese cake with a smoke tomato Coulis.
ChefJohnCurrence: I was at Crooks in the early days of Shrimp and Grits, but Bill would never take it to the extreme I wanted to go to.
ChefJohnCurrence: I always knew what I wanted to do with it.
ChefJohnCurrence: From 86 until 88. Its a big part of my start in cooking.
ChefJohnCurrence: Better mushrooms.
ChefJohnCurrence: Spicier Grits.
ChefJohnCurrence: More Cheese!
ChefJohnCurrence: More Flavor in general.
Guest185: Where do your crawfish come from -- from New Orleans?
ChefJohnCurrence: It depends... Lots comes from a broker in Memphis,
ChefJohnCurrence: "Tail Meat" comes from there.
Brad: Any final comments Chef?
Brad: Thank you so much for being here tonight - Chef.
ChefJohnCurrence: Thanks for logging on. I'm flattered.
ChefJohnCurrence: And come on down to City Grocery if you're ever in this neck of the woods.
Brad: And thank you everyone for participating.
ChefJohnCurrence: Thanks so much, everybody. Have a good night!
Brad: Stay tuned for next month's Chef Chat.
Brad: Goodnight everyone.
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